Ready To Wear
RENAISSANCE CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION
Many custom options are availible.
There are ten bones used in the front and sides and four down the back. The bones are inserted into bones casings. The arm holes have bias tape that is turned inside the bodice and hand sewn.
The edges of the bodice are piped for a finished appearance and for strength. The piping is hand sewn onto the innermost layer of the bodice giving a clean crisp look at the edges. Ultimately the bodice will mold to your individual shape. The fabrics are cut to give you the best possible fit allowing just that bit of change in structure, to allow the bodice conform to your body. This ability of the bodice to mold to the owner's shape is also due to the way the edges are finished. The pieces of fabric are sewn into a large stack with the edges turned in and sewn by hand so it is not just flipped inside out. It allows the bias edges to fit just right to your own shape.
Since most of us do not have a Lady's Maid capable of good stitching (It's so hard to get good help these days) to sew us into the bodice there are several options for lacing. The first option are grommets which can be couched with thread. The second are round holes that are embroidered. This option is the historically correct one but the least strong. The third is a special system that I use where the lacing is hidden by either self trim or decorative trim. The fourth option is to have lacing tape hidden inside. This way you have no visible attachment, when the bodice is laced. I use this last system most often because unlike the others if a grommet comes out or a button hole tears, the entire bodice is not ruined.
A modesty panel is always placed on the inside of the bodice so that no one sees a chemise peeking through and to allow for adjustments that might be need after eating and drinking.
Some of the custom options are choice shoulder and waist details
Waist bands are interlined and stiffened and measure 3". They have hook and eyes for closure but grommets can be used.
Depending on fabric used and customer's request the overskirts can be lined.
Other options are Great Sleeves and Spanish sleeves. Typically the Great Sleeves we make are hand cartridge pleated onto the shoulders of the bodice, but can be made to detach. Spanish sleeves are sometimes sewn in or removable.
Sleeves are always lined and sometimes interlined. Our usual way of construction is to hand sew the cuff area for added detail.
TRIMS AND EMBELLISHEMNTS
Embellishments such as cuttes and slashes, laces and custom embroidery are just a few of many choices. The Renaissance nobles enjoyed covering their clothing with jewels that were either permanently sewn on, or made to come off so that they can be worn with other outfits. The use of ouches which are jewels set in metals is well documented.
ORDER OF DRESSING