RENAISSANCE CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION

This page is intended to offer some detailed information on how we typically construct the basic pieces of an Elizabethan Renaissance Gown. This is meant to offer some idea of the quality we offer, our attention to detail and the level of accuracy in construction of period clothing.
Many custom options are availible.

BODICES

Our bodices are usually made of three to four layers of fabric with an additional layer sometimes being used, depending on the type of fabric used for the outside and how stiff the bodice needs to be.

There are ten bones used in the front and sides and four down the back. The bones are inserted into bones casings. The arm holes have bias tape that is turned inside the bodice and hand sewn.

The edges of the bodice are piped for a finished appearance and for strength. The piping is hand sewn onto the innermost layer of the bodice giving a clean crisp look at the edges. Ultimately the bodice will mold to your individual shape. The fabrics are cut to give you the best possible fit allowing just that bit of change in structure, to allow the bodice conform to your body. This ability of the bodice to mold to the owner's shape is also due to the way the edges are finished. The pieces of fabric are sewn into a large stack with the edges turned in and sewn by hand so it is not just flipped inside out. It allows the bias edges to fit just right to your own shape.

Since most of us do not have a Lady's Maid capable of good stitching (It's so hard to get good help these days) to sew us into the bodice there are several options for lacing. The first option are grommets which can be couched with thread. The second are round holes that are embroidered. This option is the historically correct one but the least strong. The third is a special system that I use where the lacing is hidden by either self trim or decorative trim. The fourth option is to have lacing tape hidden inside. This way you have no visible attachment, when the bodice is laced. I use this last system most often because unlike the others if a grommet comes out or a button hole tears, the entire bodice is not ruined.

A modesty panel is always placed on the inside of the bodice so that no one sees a chemise peeking through and to allow for adjustments that might be need after eating and drinking.

Some of the custom options are choice shoulder and waist details

OVERSKIRT

Overskirts are made with generous amounts of fabric and is normally dependent on one's farthingale size. A smaller circumfrance requires less fabric than a larger one. The fabric amount also varries as to the exact decade one wishes their gown to be representative of. Our preference is for cartridge pleating, but other forms of pleating such as knife or box are also period correct. There are two types of cartridge pleating offered. One is the traditional technique which is entirely hand sewn. This is a bit more expensive but period accurate. The other version is a slight modernization, and is only partly hand sewn. While less accurate, it is a bit less costly, and has the advantage of being more durable.

Waist bands are interlined and stiffened and measure 3". They have hook and eyes for closure but grommets can be used.

Depending on fabric used and customer's request the overskirts can be lined.

SLEEVES

There are many options for sleeves. Our standard sleeves tie onto the bodice and are not sewn in. This gives the option of removing them on hot days and offers the ability to interchange the sleeves with other ones for a nice "mix and match" look and will help to make your wardrobe appear more extensive.

Other options are Great Sleeves and Spanish sleeves. Typically the Great Sleeves we make are hand cartridge pleated onto the shoulders of the bodice, but can be made to detach. Spanish sleeves are sometimes sewn in or removable.

Sleeves are always lined and sometimes interlined. Our usual way of construction is to hand sew the cuff area for added detail.

TRIMS AND EMBELLISHEMNTS

It is worth noting here that there are endless possibilities . We will do our best to respect your pocketbook in this manner, but prefer not to have any limits as we are well aware that a girl can not have too much trim.

Embellishments such as cuttes and slashes, laces and custom embroidery are just a few of many choices. The Renaissance nobles enjoyed covering their clothing with jewels that were either permanently sewn on, or made to come off so that they can be worn with other outfits. The use of ouches which are jewels set in metals is well documented.

ORDER OF DRESSING

We have had clients who are unsure of the proper order in which to put on their clothing. There are also people who are researching the web in order to find out more about renaissance clothing so we are providing this information for those who are curious.

The first item on the list is a chemise, tunic or shirt. The chemise is the most popular option worn.

The next item is the corset should you be wearing one. One ought to always wear a corset to be properly dressed but on occasion there may be reasons not to. (Such as it's ten million degrees outside and just one more layer makes you feel like you will swoon.

Your farthingale should be next. Many people will refer to a farthingale as a hoopskirt.

If you are going to wear a bumroll, this goes on next. There is some debate about the bumroll and it's place in dressing. Some people prefer to wear it under their hoops, some over. If worn underneath the farthingale, some feel the bumroll can take some of the weight of the farthingale and skirts off the waist and redistribute it. I think it is a personal choice and tend to wear my own over the farthingale.

The underskirt goes on next. This is the skirt that normally has an elaborate fore panel.

The overskirt goes on over the underskirt. This skirt is often the same colour as the bodice.

If one is choosing to wear a partlet this is a good time to put it on. If the partlet is the sort that goes over one's bodice obviously it should go on after the bodice is on.

Next on is the bodice. This get laced in the front or back, most of our bodices are laced up the back. We often provide a very long lace, so that the bodice can be loosely pre-laced and slipped over the head. Then the laces can be tightened. It's good for getting dresses quickly or when your dresser has very little patience. It may also be good to note that one is best off lacing from bottom to top. It helps keep the chest lines at their best and the lace ends can be tucked into the top of the bodice.

Sleeves should be attached next, unless one has already attached them to the bodice, at which point they are already on. If you are putting on your sleeves with your bodice, make certain to hold the edges of your chemise cuffs as it can be hard to retrieve them later.

Lastly is one's jewels, hat and other accessories. Did we mention jewels? We must have but we just want to be sure as we adore jewels